In this post I’ll show you how to quickly spot and identify the fake Air Jordan 3 Cool Grey. I wrote an article a couple of days ago, talking about the number of pairs release, see link below
The replica pairs have been out for months but I was waiting to get access to pictures of legitimate pairs for a side by side comparison. Before we start going through the nuances that I’ve spotted, first let’s go through the preliminary steps.
1. Smell the shoes ( only if you’ve already made the purchase)
One of the dead giveaway is the smell/odor of the glue uses to construct the replicas. If the glue smell is really strong to the point of irritating your nostrils, then you’ve probably being dealt a counterfeit
2.Proof of Purchase
Ask for a proof of purchase. Receipt must include details such as provenance, time of purchase, date and any other relevant information. If a seller is reluctant to provide that, I will strongly urge to refrain from following through with the purchase.
Now let’s talk about actual differences
The cement print overlay has a higher cut on the fake air jordan 3 cool grey ( see yellow arrow and line). The pattern of the elephant print isn’t the same as well ( it is less dense and more spaced out and slanted on the real pair). The print is more compacted on the fake pair and appear to have a vertical direction. The air chamber isn’t very wide on the fake pair ( and the screen lines on it from the paint).
The cracks of the cement print are wider and bolder on the fake pair ( see yellow square). The leather on the panel is more wrinkly on the fake pair ( see yellow arrow)and the gap between the screen and the edge of the midsole is bigger on the real pair ( see red line and oval circle).
There is about an inch and half of space between the edge of the midsole and the screen of the air unit on the authentic pair, and barely any space between the edge of the midsole and the screen of the counterfeit pair. Also notice the lines across the screen of the replica pair.
Once again you can clearly see the difference in the cement print overlay ( the cracks have more of a horizontal direction on the fakes).
The leather material on the mid section panel is very wrinkly on the fake pair, see yellow arrows.
The tab of the fake pair is shorter, the heel overlay is higher on the fake pair ( see horizontal line). The cracks of the cement print are much thicker and bolder on the fake pair ( see red circles). Also see how the legs of the “A and R” on the fake pair are adjacent to the cement print overlay ( it shows how much higher the cut is on the fakes)
(1) both shoes are size 9.5’s so they should technically have the same feature, but you’ll see that the perforations don’t have the same pattern and the spacing between the heel tab and the heel liner is much smaller on the fake pair.
(2)The cement print overlay is cut a little too high on the fake pair ( see yellow line and arrow)
(3)The “AIR” text is a bit smaller and the letter aren’t colinear on the fake
(4) the jumpman does not look the same between both pairs
This is a picture of the right pair and the jumpman logo does not look the same between both pairs.
The jumpman logo is more chubby on the fake pair.
The “9.5” is bolder on the fake pair but its size is bigger on the authentic pair. The jumpman logo on the label isn’t the same, the factories where both pairs were produced are not the same ( that doesn’t necessarily make a shoe fake but it’s worth mentioning). The fake pair was produced at a much earlier date.
The “9.5” is wider on the real pair but higher on the fake label. The jumpman logo does not look the same, the label has a wider border on the fake ( see yellow arrow). Also notice how bold the MSRP sticker’s writing is on the fake label in comparison to the real label.
There you have it folks, so far these are the only notable nuances that were spotted.
You can check out our other real vs fake comparisons via the Legit Check page.
Where To Buy Legit Pairs
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